NL 46: Spotlight on Waitrose
And, let's talk foil capsules.
The last of the current round of supermarket reviews, phew!
My wife usually does a pre-breakfast Waitrose shop on Saturday mornings, and I often tag along and happily loiter round their wine aisles. So I’m pretty familiar with their wines, and always interested to spot new bottles and the current offers.
I find their 3 ranges, shown below, coherent and simple to understand, and these must help to de-mystify and de-stress choosing wines. I know that the buyers take great care selecting these wines - after all, their reputations are on the line!
At tastings, and from my own purchases, these own brand wines usually show well. Reliable, good value and with good typicity. I also like the possible progression, say trying a Blueprint Grűner Veltliner, and then a No 1 example - so one can find one’s own sweet spot.
The breadth of Waitroses’ wines, particularly at higher price points, is very good. Their wine aisles are well set out, with almost a wine merchant’s shop feel, and more specialist wines can be found on their sister website, Waitrose Cellars. This operates a convenient Click & Collect service, where your order can be delivered to your local Waitrose store - free for orders £100 or more, £3.95 on orders below.
They have a number of “25% off 6” style deals during the year, and sometimes more focussed offers, e.g “25% off 3 No 1 wines”. I and many canny readers maintain lists of desired wines and eagerly await such events!
For a number of years I have attended their Spring and/or Autumn Press Tastings. This Spring’s event featured a total 181 items, including 131 wines.
An interesting change this time, was the buyers suggesting suitable food pairings for each of their wines.
I’m rather taken with this idea, which I think gives a really good, and relatable, wine style indication - as well as helping menu planning! So I’ve included these in my notes, and await reader views - if popular, I can pass on this feedback to Waitrose.
I give below the wines that particularly caught my attention.
Red Wines
With an impressive 6 Pinot Noirs on show, I couldn’t resist a PN showdown.
The verdict? Well, the first 2 wines, had touches of eucalyptus both in smell and taste - which I find quite common with South America and Australia wines. The German wine was light, fresh and with some pleasing earthy notes - so my pick for an inexpensive old world style PN. The Tasmanian and NZ wines were both fresh, fruity and likeable. The Nanny Goat edged it for me - it had real interest on the nose, - a really good and likeable expression of PN. If an offer brings the price down to £15, a cracking value wine. The Burgundy? Lovely, more ethereal on the nose, great to taste - but it is twice the price of the Nanny Goat?
Now for some Syrah based wines that impressed.
The first wine was a lovely fresh and fruity lowish alcohol Syrah, a great style for Summer. The next two were richer, but not over-ripe, and the last, the Crozes-Hermitage was leaner and elegant. This is where good value Northern Rhone wines can be found - and I would be very happy to splurge on this.
Now Rioja, Tuscany and Greece …
I’m less old school Rioja than my colleague Dave. This example is fresh and fruity but with some good stuff lurking in the background - like spice, oak and pepper! I really liked this - in stores from 24th June.
Yes, the Brunello is pricey, but what a classy and elegant wine - and their food pairing choice is appealing. It does need to be drunk with food, and decanted well before dinner, but if you like a Chianti style, this should prove a great special occasion wine.
I’m a fan of Xinomavro, and thought this was a bit more punchy and assertive than many. For newbies to this grape, the style is often compared with Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir, in this case more the former, and likely to be divisive!
Lastly were a couple of Loved & Found that (as usual) are worth a punt: Castelāo from Lisbon £9.50 (No 1 Slow Cooked Steak & Red Wine Pie); Vidoc from Atlantique £9.50 (No 1 Beef Lasagne). And a Blueprint Old Vine Garnacha from Aragón, particularly good value at £7.50 (Charlie Bigham’s Cottage Pie).
White Wines
Here the Blueprint wines were strongly represented.
The Riesling was impressive for its price - I look forward to seeing how it pairs it with that lovely savoury tart. The Vinho Verde is just right for a patio light lunch, if really chilled to balance out its residual sugar.
I enjoyed the 3 Loved & Found wines, well worth considering if you are (even a tad) adventurous.
Grolleau Gris is an interesting grape. Hadn’t heard of it until a few months back, when I tried one in the Sainsbury’s Discovery Series. It seems to ripen at much lower alcohol levels. This example was a bit fuller (and more expensive) but I enjoyed both. This grape will be featuring in a future “Unusual Grape” series.
The white Rhone was a full bodied, versatile and good value food white.
I preferred the Heaven’s Realm Grüner at £15.25 (Charlie Bingham’s Thai Green Chicken Curry & Fragrant Rice.) But the No 1 wine is currently reduced to £9.40, so must be the value choice.
We get used to bargain priced and pleasant enough Soave, but good to taste an example that was a distinct step up in texture and flavour (and price). Recommending this was helped by the current offer, it is down to £14!
At the larger tastings my stamina often flags and I miss out on sherries and potentially other interesting drinks. This time I was determined to get to them. My solution? Combine Rosé and Sparkling, and then move on!
Sparkling Rosés
The Lost & Found wine was friendly, frothy and a bit different. The Langlois was an attractive pale colour, real interest on the nose and showed a distinctive character - a very pleasant surprise. Was slightly hesitant to recommend it at £20, but it is on offer at £15! The La Gioiosa was a pleasant crowd pleasing wine, quite subtle. Very prettily presented, so looks good on the table, and would make a great present. Currently on offer at £8.50.
Fortified Wines & others
The Waitrose sherry collection is excellent, and showcase the differing styles. I can’t wait to try the interesting Confit Duck food pairings.
The Blueprint Moscatel was just lovely. Certainly sweet, I assume lightly fortified, but with balancing freshness - great value. I’m going to buy a bottle, and pig-out with the excellent Sicilian Lemon Tart!
The morning before publishing this Newsletter, I was in our local Waitrose and found a Charlie Bigham Brasserie Duck Confit in the reduced section! So I bought it, and we will eat it this evening - paired with the recommended Palo Cortado. Always looking for opportunities for drinking more sherry. Will report back in a future Guild Note.
Reading the tasting booklet before the event, I was intrigued by the vermouth, and wasn’t disappointed. Wonderful nose and such complex flavours. I can see why it has a dedicated following. Expensive, but I think a 100ml serving is just right - so, by the glass, great value! Great discovery and another must buy.
So that’s its for Waitrose. Do drop a comment if you have found the suggested food pairings helpful - so I can encourage them to continue.
And now … Dave sees no problem with bottles without capsules. Would you like to disagree with him?
Foil Capsules on wine bottles
Noticed anything lately? I’m starting to see more and more bottles on the shelves without their foil covering at the top (Foil Capsules) called ‘Naked Corks’ or ‘Naked Bottles’
I must admit the first time I saw this I thought they have just forgotten or a faulty batch but it’s more about being environmentally friendly and being cost effective.
Why foil on the bottles in the first place?
Originally used as a covering to protect the cork (Insect and rat damage ) while the wine is stored. Not a problem today, the quality of corks used and cellaring in the wine industry has dramatically improved. Nowadays it’s more for aesthetics and doesn’t affect the wine in anyway.
So you will see these ‘Naked Cork’ bottles appearing on supermarket shelves. Waitrose wines especially the Loved and Found range don’t have the foil capsules - giving them a quirky appearance and a more natural look.
The store says it saves an estimated half a tonne of unnecessary packaging since the trial was introduced in 2023.
Advantages
As well as cutting costs and unnecessary waste, it will make opening bottles easier without the need for cutting away the foil which can be tricky.
I for one have no problem with it, what do you think?
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Coming up …
Newsletter No 47 (6th June)
Keith Evans - Falanghina & Dave Cronin reports on the Independent Wine Merchant, Wickhams
In our Sister Publication, MidWeek Wines (8th June)
More Monday Top Tips from Brian Elliott
Newsletter No 48 (11th June)
Richard Wyndham - Beautiful Beaujolais & Keith Evans presents a wine quiz!
Note: Our ‘Thursday” and “Saturday” Newsletters are usually published on Wednesdays and Saturdays at 19.00. Brian’s Monday posts are published early on Monday mornings.
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Thanks ,Richard for a very comprehensive review of Waitrose wines. I have always been impressed with Quinta de la Rosa, Waitrose No.1 Douro Branco Reserva, Douro, Portugal 2023 which I think is an outstanding wines.I do feel that some of the Number 1 range is over- priced ,but when on 25% off deal becomes competitive and attractive.
The problem with the foil capsules is that they are not recyclable ,especially if they have a plastic lining, and most just end up in landfill,so any reduction in their use is helpful.